PLANT-BASED SUBS FOR

The warmth of too many people in a small space. The relief when you snag a ticket before a wave of tourists. The wafting smells of your favorite freshly baked bread. The old women shoving you for the last quart of artichokes. The free samples perched atop the counter while you wait. The glass case of housemade delicacies that taste like your grandmother’s most treasured recipes. The instinct to salivate when your number is called. The smile from the deli counter guy when he recognizes you and says, “the usual?”

When the bite is bigger than your mouth. When precious juices pool in the wax paper wrapper and you use every last breadcrumb to sop them up. When it’s so good you can’t speak, so you nod vigorously to the stranger next to you in solidarity. When the spot’s been around for what feels like a hundred years. When you can say you were there when it opened. And it’s still the same, but better. When you bring your loved ones from out of town and fight them over whose neighborhood deli is better. And you know they’re wrong. When you wear the merch proudly even though it’s dated and fits weird. When you know there’ll be a line over the weekend, but going in person adds to the flavor.